No Outline…

 

Clarinha de Fão, a traditional Portuguese sweet. It consists of a half-moon shaped, deep-fried pastry shell generously dusted with powdered sugar, enclosing a sweet, rich filling made from fig-leaf squash jam (doce de chila) and egg yolks.

I needed to find this bad boy for breakfast yesterday so I’d did a short walk and found the traditional bakery that had been baking these longer than I have been alive. I’d read about these specialties and went to order one but when confronted with how many I wanted, I found myself saying ‘four’ for some reason and got a box full! 🐖 

I continue on, what has become, my leisurely coastal foodie cruise down the Atlantic coast of Portugal.🇵🇹 

This trip/Camino/challenge has been flexible and organic and has evolved on a daily basis, which has been absolutely the best way for me. I’m nearly there after clocking up 1300 kilometres and am only a few clicks away now down to the airport and home again.

This port of call was probably the best tiny family run bar I have ever spent time in, full of locals drinking beers and wines and enjoying Dad’s  ‘francesinhas’, so if anyone finds themselves here then go and have a glass or two at ‘Sarrante’ in Povoa de Varzim.

Ok, il come clean… I want to play this track, as it’s beautiful and been a soundtrack ear worm for me for this trip. This artist is a relatively new find for me (#6Music)but such a beautiful crafted song. Lauren Auder. 

A Good Heart…

 

I decided not to visit the iconic mountain top church that overlooks the town even though it’s said to be the sanctuary of the sacred heart ❤️ of Jesus. Why there would only be the remains of his left ventricle is beyond me?

 I did look back and it was impressive on the top of the hill.

But as Fergal Sharkey once told us , “A good heart these days is hard to find…”

Relaxed start as not far to go again today, the first job was to negotiate my way along the tiny path, just wide enough for a Brompton bag, across Eiffel’s road and rail bridge across the River Limia. 

The ‘Che Guevara’ shrine and emporium at a small bar stop was an interesting find.

After passing more wild orchids growing along the roadside, the second bridge of the day was over the Cavado River as I arrived at Fao.

Less than 50km away from the airport now so probably done more miles than Vasco da Gama on this trip. 

Well it’s 1985, Thursday night, 7pm its Top of the Pops and this is this week’s number 1….

East of the sun(and west of the moon)…

This is the second donkey 🫏 iv come across on this trip if u have been following the blog?….the first one had a really long face…😜

Today, following a few days respite, I’m continuing the journey slowly south, towards my eventual departure from Porto. A cloudy start again but still keeping the sea on my right. As I approach ‘Viano do Costelo’ the coast gets rocky and the cobblestones get more unbearable on my non-existent suspension. I walk…

As I approached, I couldn’t resist riding up the long, protruding length sticking out from Viana do Costello out to sea…🤐

Iv got to get my little hairy sticks over this erection tomorrow…the Ponte Eiffel, yes, also the maker of the famous landmark in Paris…so quite a trophy!

The ‘Bastoners’ were in town when I arrived and practicing in every narrow street and square.

 

A colourful lot of Catalonian stick dancers with little tinkling bells, like Portuguese morris dancers and equally as boring looking!

A bit of jazz today with a chilled Diana Krall track, with quite a clever link (IMO)…as DK is married to Elvis (Viana do)Costello..it’s not just thrown together!!…like the beer, it’s crafted! 

Steady as she goes…

“It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and can coast down them”…said Ernest Hemingway.

“You have no such accurate remembrance of a country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle”.🚲 

I read recently, that I actually stayed in the very same place in Burguete on my first night of the Camino Frances as old Ernest frequented, back in his day!

I’m thinking of switching the Brommie for the next bit down towards Porto ….

…but not sure what model to go for??

Anyway, no more hills, coast all the way as I prepare to leave the lovely Âncora tomorrow.

“Steady as she goes" is an idiom that means to maintain your current course, speed, or routine without making sudden changes or erratic adjustments. It encourages calm consistency and perseverance, especially in the face of ongoing challenges. 

A bit of Jack Black for today’s track in ‘one of his many bands’ this time, The Raconteurs.

This is the sea…

A ride up the coast to visit Caminha and a dip on the way back at Praia de Moledo. 

This is the sea…

This isn’t…

I heard it through the grapevine…

Day 26 now - The hillside hideaway is a perfect base to explore a bit of Portuguese life from and also a few days off not lugging all my clobber around too. A little bit away from the well-worn tourist/druid track enables me to shop, eat and drink in local spots and get a real feel for the place. 

Two streets back and busily frequented with local folk is usually a giveaway. This is where you can find local food at incredible value for money and to also to research, explore ad enjoy the wines grown in this area.

Vinho Verde is not a grape variety, but a unique Portuguese wine region in the lush, rainy northwest of Portugal. The name literally translates to "green wine," which refers to its young, fresh style meant to be consumed soon after bottling rather than its color. 

The Demarcated Region of Vinho Verde stretches across the historical Minho province from the Douro River north to the Spanish border. The Atlantic Ocean creates a cool, high-rainfall climate, keeping the landscape extraordinarily green. Vineyards are traditionally trained on high pergolas (enforcado) to keep grapes off the damp ground and prevent rot. 

What a song and a fantastic version here by Amy at her soulful best…with the added bonus of Weller and Jools…

Steal my Sunshine…

Day 25 - Heading from Baiona south into Portugal today. It would seem that the rest of the planet is enjoying some baking hot, scorching, skank holiday, weather and no doubt frying eggs on the pavement. So spare a thought, and maybe say a prayer, for this poor pilgrims efforts as for me, it’s a real pea-souper here, with this wonderful, panoramic view out to sea this morning…

Later, I could actually see the sea…

The Portuguese Coastal Way (Caminho Português da Costa) is one of the most beautiful and popular pilgrimage routes to/from Santiago de Compostela.

It was a fast exit from Spain into Portugal for lunch.

Diaria?…I ordered the €8:50 special that came with a free toilet roll!

Steal My Sunshine" is a hit alternative pop song released in 1999 by the Canadian alternative rock band Len. It served as the lead single from their third studio album, You Can't Stop the Bum Rush, and became a massive summer blockbuster. (get the irony?)🤐