Inspired observations gained from my travels up and down, matched to an eclectic music track of my choice (probably indie/soul) and made into a quirky blog from this old recalcitrant
rɪˈkalsɪtr(ə)nt
Lancastrian
adjective
1. having an obstinately uncooperative attitude towards authority or discipline.
1. a person with a recalcitrant attitude.
"a stiff-necked recalcitrant and troublemaker"
Start with what is right rather than what is acceptable.
Franz Kafka.
Next trip coming very, very soon….
Burguete was a lovely village, very French but I was now back in Spain. I got my first ‘Peregrinos’ passport stamp and set off after a coffee in the local bar. Through the woods today, deep into the Basque Country, the old stronghold of ETA. I thought they had dissolved but then a couple of separatists came menacingly past me on horseback.
I entered Zubiri over the ‘Puente de la Rabia’ or ‘Rabies Bridge’ and ate a nice lunch after soaking my aching trotters in the clear water…no dogs about tho?
The last hour the thunder and rain came, quickly turning the small, narrow paths into tiny river torrents so I had to spend the final few kilometres walking along straddling the path looking like, to all and sundry, that I had shit ma pants…
PS. I hadn’t BTW.
Florence + the machine here with her 2009 hit about rabies….enjoy!
Day 1 of the Camino de Santiago was thwarted from the start…
‘Completo’ said the Alsa app when I tried to find a place on the only bus over the hill to France!
“Completo” said the woman at the Alsa kiosk when it opened at Pamplona bus station.
Then I heard an Irish voice wanting to get to Roncevalles and he was told the same.
“It’s public holiday’ said the cabbie, so we split the taxi fare and headed speedily together to his destination, Roncevalles. It would leave me only 20km short from my start, I’d work something out!
Moore was retired and a proud Proddy from Carrickfergus and had been out walking for a week and was heading back for his parked up Mercedes Sprinter camper van.
The top man then offered me a lift directly to where I needed to get to in St.Jean Pied de Port on the French border to start my Camino.
The bemused woman at the Pilgrims passport office sorted me out with the appropriate paperwork and I was off over the hills before lunchtime.
Strava told me it was 17mile with 4675ft of elevation when I’d finished but my old hairy sticks thought it had been a lot longer!
It was made a bit longer than anticipated as the 180 bed monastery in Roncevalles was also “Completo” when I arrived so I ended up in a nice private room in Burguete. Not sure if I’m in France or Spain now??
I was always in ‘Complete Control’ according to The Clash, not sure I’m up for a pogo to it tonight tho!
Still moving and heading north up to Pamplona, via Zaragoza on a Renfe train.
The Loft last night was a modern, well designed hostel in Lavapies, a gritty, urban area of downtown Madrid near to Atocha Station.
‘Atocha’ means ‘shithole’ in Spanish and is used to describe one of the most over-complicated, incomplete and incompetent rail hubs I’ve come across for a while…I was glad to leave!
Primal Scream kicking us off on this blog, you can’t wrong with a Bobby Gillespie song - this from 1991.
“I'm moving on up now, getting out of the darkness
My light shines on, my light shines on, my light shines on…”
Seamless…train from Tweedbank, then onto the big city tram, through the bale wrapper and briskly frisked through interrogation with hours to spare/wait.
Everything Must Go" by Manic Street Preachers is a bittersweet reflection on navigating loss, transition, and moving forward, written largely after the 1995 disappearance of band member Richey Edwards. It represents a "clearing out" of the past and a reluctant acceptance of change…Ring any bells??
Next stop Madrid.
I saw these at Blackburn KGH just two days after the release of their debut studio album, Generation Terrorists, on 10 February 1992. At this time, the band featured its classic four-piece line-up:
James Dean Bradfield: Lead vocals and lead guitar
Richey Edwards: Rhythm guitar and lyrics
Nicky Wire: Bass guitar and lyrics
Sean Moore: Drums
James Dean Bradfield had the phrase “You love us”scrawled on his chest in lipstick…Great days!
My local bike shop has sorted me out with a cardboard bike box which I have dismembered and creatively constructed a package that fits inside 2 Ikea ‘Dimpa bags’, a well known trick when transporting Brompton’s on aeroplanes.
The bike box will then get ‘cling filmed’ at the airport tomorrow and then won’t be opened until I’m re-united with it when I get back to Pamplona.
The second bag is under seat hand luggage which ‘should’ have the essentials for the first few days including my gifts of blackout eye mask, earplugs, bike book and ‘Rosemary’ beads to keep me safe and hopefully get me over the Pyrenees.
Thanks All…
An absolute banger for today’s blog track from JoBoxers with ‘Boxerbeat’ from way back in 1983. Frontman was Dig Wayne and the video features a ‘Grumpy Old Bastard’ for good measure…they had them even back then!
So, Dig out your braces and have a good stomp to this from the year after I left school.
“The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain" said Eliza Doolittle but she was wrong!
Accuracy: It is an idiomatic expression, not a meteorologically accurate description of rainfall in Spain, which varies widely from the northwest to the southeast.
The Atlantic coastal weather in Northern Spain looks a bit unsettled and looks to me like the start may well be a little inclement. I need to factor this in when sorting out my packing list which I have spent the weekend pondering 🤔.
By planning the trip for May I had hoped it would be dry for most of it and didn’t really want to cart a load of wet weather clobber…oh well, time will tell.
Fran Healy in a kilt in the boot of a Vauxhall Viva and a dead sheep in the video, what is there not to like about this tune?
Navigation on this trip should be relatively easy as you just need to find the start and then follow a signposted route of pictures of scallop shells all the way to the end. On the off chance I’m going so fast that I miss an odd scallop marker and veer off into Portugal I’m going to take some additional IT with me. My trusty IT consultant has linked my telephone to my tiny Velo2 navigation device on my bike and to Strava so I will be able to keep a track of where I’m going and how far Iv been. For most of the time il be walking so il record everything as a hike. Some days I may be able to ride a few sections but let’s see how it goes. I will also take my iPad to keep the blog updated, earbuds for the tunes and a power pack to keep everything charged up.
Fronted by the lovely Sarah Cracknell, I loved this band in the 90’s for their indie pop tunes.
