Mandinka…

A pathetic few miles around to the other side of the bay to Baiona was all that was achieved this morning.

Enough for a sunny Sabbath.

The endless stream of druids, heads lowered, head towards me, with their daft hats and stupid sticks tapping along the tarmac, wearing 16 layers of protective clothing, clanking along like Mr Saucepan Man with the additional weight of multiple 5 gallon water bottles that were heating up in the hot sun with every accomplished and cherished mile.

I hope they make it, some don’t look like they will…or have!!

Anyone fancy a brew??

I have often wondered how a can get this track into a blog and this is the closest I’m ever going to get…a bit of a lame link but here it is, Sinead at her very early, very raw best and wow, that voice …turn up and enjoy! RIP Sinead, sad loss.

You get what you give…

Day 23 - The Spanish seem to go out of their way to be miserably unhelpful. 

Pulpo á Feira: The most iconic dish. Fresh octopus is boiled (traditionally dipped three times into boiling water to curl the tentacles), sliced onto a wooden platter, and drenched in high-quality olive oil, coarse sea salt, and smoky Spanish paprika (pimentón).

Last night, in Vigo, a strait laced woman read out the menu, parrot fashion. She owned the only copy, cribbed in a little notebook, she didn’t care whether I understood or not, and went through the entire thing, despite a glazed/bemused expression from me…

I heard her read out the same thing at least 6 times around the restaurant and all I heard was…

Thinkos

Unos

Thekos 

Thientos 

Interos 

Plantos 

Pescados

Sardinos 

Ramos 

Ballie…

They have such fantastic, tasty produce and culinary skills a plenty, but no time for foreigners wanting to embrace a taste or god forbid experience Galician food, and never seem prepared to help or advise…I had done my homework and ordered the octopus, it’s the local thing, ‘pulpo a Feira’ , it was a signature plate, a local specialty and what I wanted, it was fantastically simple as it was all about the source, and as I had predicted, came with not a smile, an acknowledgement, no appreciation of participating and enjoying the local cuisine or suggestion of a wine to accompany … I stopped myself asking if it was local or had been caught in Scottish waters..Annoyingly, these buggers really have a lot to learn about honest hospitality and I find this so surprising.

Anyhow, not too much to report today, apart from an early start with a belly full of sloppy octopus and Rioja. 

Down to the beach today for a swim at ‘Praia de Patos’.

Not sure how planning permission was granted for this…?

And then a local albergue for the night at Saians, overlooking the coast…not a bad spot to end the day.

I’m slowly, slowing down as I head towards Portugal.🇵🇹 

‘You get what you give’ is my sentiment, and that of the New Rads from back in th’day.

Lady’s Bridge…

Day 22 - Reverse Camino de Santiago to Porto - Today from Pontevedra to Vigo. 

The druids were up early this morning, rustling about with their zips and Velcro straps, applying foot cream and Volterol, liberally to alleviate aching limbs. It’s quite a routine and starts before first light, they desperately fumble about with little lights strapped to their heads, trying to pack massive sacks of beloved belongings. 

This bicigrino just lets them all get gone, and allows daylight to break before I take my turn to rise and shine…in peace!

Today I’m heading down to the little port of Moana, to catch a ferry to Vigo, as I’m not allowed over the road bridge.

It’s hourly, and for only €2.40 dobbers, it’s a nice way to take a break from the saddle.

20 minutes later I was in the big city of Vigo. 

Down by the port.

I passed this fella on the way to work with his Brommie…

I googled what to do and it suggested I walk up to the highest point of the city, O Castro’s fortress…Jeez, just what I need, another bloody hill!! While up there, it did make me wonder how the bloody hell could you sink a ship from here with a cannon…??

From the top, I then googled, where is a good ‘Cervecería’ and set off back down into town.

Iv crowbarred ‘Lady’s bridge’ in so that I can have a fix of Richard Hawley for today’s tune, nice and relaxed.

Endless Art…

Day 21 - Left Santiago de Compostela behind and now heading South to Portugal.

Life always feels sooo much better when the sun shines. Today I’m following part of the ‘Variante Espiritual’, route, 50km south of Santiago de Compostela, so there’s a good chance il ‘find myself’ if I keep vigilant enough, somewhere along the way. 

I followed the river Ulla until it turned into an estuary, and then the open sea and kept it on my right as I circumnavigated the smaller places along the coastline. 

Passing the incredible road bridge over to the Isle of Arousa.

The Province of Pontevedra is located in the world-renowned Rías Baixas wine region, famous for producing premium Albariño white wines. 

I will need/have to substantiate this later…strangely, the vines are supported by concrete posts.

Tonight is in the Pilgrims albergue in Pontevedra, these places are so well established and equipped and have been great so far for €10 dobbers a night.

I found this bloke, it might be art but I suspect drugs played a part in the inspiration…

…and I wish a could have found a big plastic cock to leave with this offering…

UPDATE: Some time later…I enjoyed a drop!

“All art is quite useless according to Oscar Wilde…”

Another Irish band for today, this time it’s Dublin boys ‘A House’ with this cracking track from 1991.

If I Should Fall from grace with God…

 

A lovely cool morning with inverted cloud but a sunny ride for the last 50km into Santiago de Compostela. 

Respect for the Peregrino on a push rod was the order of the day.

On the approach, the crowds gathered and of course the trumpets played and then on arrival at the big church the crowds gathered and the whole area filled up with selfie sticks and self proclaimed praise (mostly American). 

The big fella from the Vatican had flown in by helicopter especially to sign my certificate and a wonderful feast was planned with a meat bingo and disco for later.

Unfortunately, the ‘lines’ of druids queuing to get in the Catholic Cathedral and the mobbed streets put me off a tad, so I headed for the Pilgrims Passport office and got another credential…

What’s another 300km?

I may as well give another Camino a go…the Portuguese route in reverse down to Porto to finish. Within an hour I was heading south and back on some beautiful rural lanes thanks to Velo2…I hope I’m forgiven for not hanging about…

If I should fall from grace with God…

Classic Pogues from the deceased Shane McGowan - RIP owd lad, ur music and lyrics were class!

Shelter from the Storm…

Day 19 - Camino de Santiago Norte route - From Baamonde to Boimorto.

Wet again and up again this morning, with a usual daily visit up to the windmills.

The poncho came on about an hour in as the rain became relentless. I stopped in a few bus shelters and then I stopped for lunch to get a break from the weather near to the monastery at Sobrado. Glad I did as the sunshine came out in the afternoon.

It’s looking like this could the last wet day now as the sun is supposed to be out from tomorrow, fingers crossed.

I’m less than 50km away from Santiago de Compostela.

A bit of Bob gives us the tune for today…here he is live in 1976 sporting a pair of old Y fronts on his head and a wispy beard…