Inspired observations gained from my travels up and down, matched to an eclectic music track of my choice (probably indie/soul) and made into a quirky blog from this old recalcitrant
rɪˈkalsɪtr(ə)nt
Lancastrian
adjective
1. having an obstinately uncooperative attitude towards authority or discipline.
1. a person with a recalcitrant attitude.
"a stiff-necked recalcitrant and troublemaker"
Start with what is right rather than what is acceptable.
Franz Kafka.
Next trip coming very, very soon….
As wet as an otters pocket again today but I was determined to make it to Leon on a boring section. I donned my massive fashionable Decathalon ful length poncho (u may laff) and only stopped a couple of times on the way, happy to sit warmly inside the billowing bag of tranquility, with the music in my lugs and just kept on pedalling. I passed the lines of waterlogged druids, marching/squelching on to their pre determined salvation in Santiago. The poor sinners are dropping like flies…I hear.
Even the horses had long faces.
On the up side, I arrived early into Leon, checked in and went out for an afternoon sesh of local beer/tapas/wine/tapas/wine/raciones/wine…etc.etc….eat/sleep/repeat, pilgrim free time. They do the bars so well here,every drink ordered, served with tapas and then my ‘racione’ of the famous hand-cut ‘Cecina de Leon’ jamon was superb.
Still some bars I was afraid to enter…🤔
Garbage for tonight’s track…it’s been a dreadful/restful day but if the sun doesn’t start to shine I might be turning right tomorrow!
If I’d have known you could’ve got here by narrowboat then it would have been a bit easier but the locks look a bit serious!
As I left Boadilla del Camino, I followed the Canal de Castella into Fromista then continued on the flat for much of the day with the tunes on for the first time to alleviate the long sections on the road adjacent to the Camino footpath.
Bike Setup
My bike setup has been perfect, the smaller 44 tooth chain set helps with the hills, the VIncita bar bag for handy stuff like gloves,sunglasses, oil and tools and the Brompton Borough bag on the front block keeping everything watertight. The 2 pockets on it are really handy for my Sigg bottle in one and poncho/magnum in the other. Perfect bag for when I arrive at the albergues, as it all just lifts off.
I have 90psi in the new Schwalbe marathon Green tyres and they have been great so far. I may need some new brakes soon but Hannah at BrilliantBikes has emailed me to advise me what to replace them with tomorrow. Velo2 has been handy to navigate through the bigger towns otherwise Google maps and the Camino App have worked fine. All mileage is recorded on Strava.
Iv not felt rushed at all, waking around 7am and hitting the road about 8 with plenty of stops for sustenance along the way. The wet weather is annoying but I’m still making incredible progress.
This guy was from Australia and told me that ‘Brompton’s’ are the hire bike of choice for getting around Canberra - he was as pleased as punch to see a Brompton on the Camino!
“Because it's just a ride, it's just a ride
No need to run, no need to hide
It'll take you round and round
Sometimes you're up
Sometimes you're down”
Welsh girl JEM is the choice for today with a tune that cropped up on my playlist today from 2004.
Day 8 - From Tardajos to Boadilla del Camino across the Meseta Central plateau.
“What's that coming over the hill?…is it a Brompton?”
From the storks last night, nesting in the village churches, to today’s ride where I planned to tackle the Meseta Central Plateau with warnings of scorching earth and limited shade. This is a grain crop growing area with a clay, claggy soil as the terrain totally changes now to up and down rolling hills through a patchwork of young crops.
After Hornillos del Camino I stripped off, ready to tackle the big lump ahead.
Halfway up it started to rain so I stopped to don the poncho once again as the rain came in with the horizontal wind.
When I think of ponchos, I think of Clint Eastwood, looking cool, calm and dangerous, rolling into town wearing a handmade Apache Indian design, woven and embroidered woollen number.
My poncho is a little different.
Mine is in a light blue, waterproof plastic, in XL, as a last minute (just in case) buy from Decathlon.
As the rain got heavier and the track got muddier, the poor Brompton’s little mudguards and chain set couldn’t cope and the gears started to slip, I had no choice but to take a slippery-slip walk all the way to the top.
But then here things changed. As I started to career down the other side, with the hood strings pulled tight so I can hardly see where was going, a strange phenomenon started coming over the hill, my poncho ballooning out like a 3 man tent with little pipe cleaner legs pedalling like the clappers, like a crazy muck-spreader, with big clods of shite flying off in every direction, splattering descending pilgrims on my way down, doing over 30 miles an hour!….”Buen Camino!” I called, as I passed each one with a grin on my face….God knows what they thought was coming over the hill towards them!
As I finally rolled into town I needed a shower and a bed for the night and had only one question…”Are you feeling lucky, punk?
… I was, and found a great spot, even though there was a lot of cleaning and drying to be had at tonight’s albergue - yet another gem of a place and time to sit and relax with a nice glass of Rioja.
It’s been ‘One Week’ on the Camino de Santiago: Day 7 From Belorado to Tardajos, over the ‘Montes de Orca’ and into the big city of Burgos.
The morning ride from Belarado was a real ‘pea-souper’, the cloud was down and it didn’t clear until after the big climb up the ‘Montes de Orca’ from Villafranca.
After a much needed breakfast stop at San Juan de Ortega I headed down into Burgos City. Entering into the arse end of it through the industrial area, past the laminate floor factory, belching out smoke!…
St.James would have been disappointed I fear!
In the heart of the city I met Mr Waffle Cone
and enjoyed good tour around the beautiful and impressive cathedral area before heading out to find some digs for the benevolent before the storm struck.
I passed a nice looking bar but was too afraid to enter…
First totally dry day on the Camino firstly on paths through the vineyards of Nejera and then up and down hills to Santo Domingo de la Calzada for a ‘Menu del Dia’ lunch by the cathedral.
The inclusion of wine made the afternoon a bit slower but after 41miles I’d arrived at Belorado where €19 buys me a bed for the night and a swim as a ‘reward’ in preference to the dodgy sounding one I passed earlier in the day…see ⬇️
You would have to be brave to sleep here…
‘Reward’ by The Teardrop Explodes from 1981 is today’s blog track with a nice bit o’brass and a bangin’ tune to boot.
